I do very little coding myself, but from what I can tell: the guy’s a coder through and through. It took a great deal of pounding my head on my desk and making inquiries with smarter friends the inner workings of Guido’s code. Rolleiflex 2.8F Digital Light Meter Modification – Main components mounted (close) Rolleiflex 2.8F Digital Light Meter Modification – Main components mounted I also removed the constant “power on” LED on the board of the Arduino.įitting them was fairly straightforward, I used double-sided mounting tape to fit everything, I also had to add a 3.3v step up regulator (much like Guido did) to keep the voltage going to the light sensor consistent through the battery’s discharge cycle. I removed the reset button from the Arduino, and trimmed a little of the board of the 2032 holder to make it fit a little nicer. Rolleiflex 2.8F Digital Light Meter Modification – Nuts and bolts I did have to modify both the CR2032 holder and the actual arduino boards to make them fit.įind your perfect Leica or M-mount film camera with the help of this interactive tool & reference data
ROLLEIFLEX 2.8 POLOROID PRO
The smallest Arduino board I could easily source was the exact one he used, an Arduino Pro Mini 3.3v/8mhz. Guido used a 3v battery much like I did, but I wasn’t a fan of CR1/3N batteries, so I opted for a CR2032 (the king of batteries!). The black wire is the output from the sensor. Rolleiflex 2.8F Digital Light Meter Modification – Cable channelĪbove you can see the wires from the galvanometer (on the right) and the wires to the sensor (left) all converging on the central screw hole. The front plate of the rolleiflex has three screws in it, but if you omit the center one, you have a perfect, albeit tiny channel to run wires to the inside of the mirror box. Plus, it’s based on an ambient light sensor with a spectral sensitivity very closely resembling that of our eyes, so no worries with it being fooled by outdoor vs. You feed it your input voltage (3.3v in my case) and it outputs a portion of that depending on how much light it sees.
It’s also silicon-based, so I don’t think it’s going bad any time soon. It works very similarly to a CdS cell, except much more linearly.
I used the “ Adafruit ALS-PT19 Analog Light Sensor Breakout” for $2.50 as the light sensor (above).
Rolleiflex 2.8F Digital Light Meter Modification – The Adafruit ALS-PT19 Analog Light Sensor Breakout in action I wanted to use as much of the camera’s existing infrastructure as possible, so I reused the selenium cell’s contacts to aid in disassembly should anything go wrong. So, I removed only the selenium cell, and epoxied in the bubble lenses and the black housing. Hoss completely replaced the selenium bubble-lens strip, I wanted to keep that in place, because those lenses give the light meter a similar field of view to the actual lenses below. In many ways, this was EXACTLY what I wanted to do, save for a few changes due to preference - or laziness - I chose.
ROLLEIFLEX 2.8 POLOROID HOW TO
In 2017, a fellow by the name of Guido Hoss had posted to his blog a project showing how to drive the galvanometer by using an Arduino microcontroller reading inputs from a CdS cell ( the project is described on his blog in detail here).
I even tried two kinds of solar cells, the monocrystalline type (it favored outdoor light disproportionately) and amorphous (didn’t match the output curve of the meter) so I was forced to try something crazy I’d seen: a CdS cell and Arduino microcontroller. Initially, I tried using a modern solar cell to replace the selenium strip that was in there. Rolleiflex 2.8F Digital Light Meter Modification – Solar panel tests It got to the point where I couldn’t take it and so, I set off on finding a solution. “I’m just a simple needle, I can move depending on the current you give me, certainly there must be some way I can be of some use?” That old galvanometer sat in my parts bin calling to me, though. While using the camera I became quite familiar with using a handheld light meter, even though there was one right there on the camera.Ī while back, resolved that the meter would never be useful again, I even bought one of those fancy 3rd party carbon fiber meter plugs to replace the bulky needle assembly that stuck out of the focus knob. And as with many cameras of its vintage, the selenium cell used to power the batteryless light meter was beyond its expiration date. The story starts off with a Rolleiflex 2.8F, which I was sold for a song by a friend.
ROLLEIFLEX 2.8 POLOROID PLUS
Rolleiflex 2.8F Digital Light Meter Modification – ILFORD Pan F PLUS – Nikon N90S and Quantaray 50-2.8 Macro EMULSIVE Santa match confirmations have been sent out to this year's 850 players! If you have any questions about your match or the process, please reach out via Elfster ASAP.